How much does a radon mitigation system cost? The most generic response to this question is: it will cost about $800-$1,200. There are several factors that need to be considered when estimating the cost of a radon mitigation system. Unfortunately, these systems are not “one size fits all” for homes. Below is a list of things that will affect the cost of a radon mitigation system.
| GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION
Depending on where you live, labor and material costs will vary.
| TYPE OF SYSTEM
BASEMENT AND SLAB ON GRADE HOMES:
ACTIVE SUB-SLAB SUCTION
MOST COMMON MOST EFFECTIVE MOST RELIABLE
Also known as sub-slab depressurization, this is the most common and most effective type of mitigation system in homes with basement and slab on grade foundations. This system involves inserting one or more suction pipes (usually 3 or 4-inch schedule 40 PVC pipe) through the slab and into crushed rock or soil underneath. The pipe then leads to the outdoors, where a fan is installed, and sucks the radon gas from below the slab directly to the outdoors. The pipe usually terminates above the roofline near the gutter.
SUMP-HOLE SUCTION
COMMON EFFECTIVE
This is a variation of the sub-slab suction and drain-tile suction systems. The aforementioned vent pipe is installed in an existing, capped and sealed sump pit rather than drilling a hole into the slab.
PASSIVE SUB-SLAB SUCTION
COMMON MODERATELY EFFECTIVE
This is the same as active sub-slab suction, except there is no fan installed. This type of system relies on air currents and natural pressure differentials instead of a fan. Passive systems are less effective than active systems, but more energy-efficient as they don’t require electricity to operate.
DRAIN TILE SUCTION
UNCOMMON EFFECTIVE
Some existing homes have drain tiles or pipes which divert water away from the home. Adding suction to these pipes can lower radon levels.
BLOCK-WALL SUCTION
UNCOMMON EFFECTIVE
This system is for homes with hollow wall foundations (such as cinder block) and is used in combination with sub-slab suction.
CRAWLSPACE HOMES:
SUBMEMBRANE SUCTION
MOST COMMON MOST EFFECTIVE MOST RELIABLE
This system involves installing a high-density plastic sheet over the earth floor in the crawlspace. This plastic sheet covers the floor and is usually sealed to the foundation walls to make it airtight. A vent pipe is then installed which sucks the radon gases from beneath the plastic sheet to the outdoors. The pipe installed is normally a 3 or 4-inch Schedule-40 PVC pipe which runs along the exterior of the home and usually terminates near the roofline. This is the most effective radon mitigation system for homes with crawlspaces.
CRAWLSPACE DEPRESSURIZATION
COMMON MODERATELY EFFECTIVE
This is the same as submembrane suction except no plastic barrier is installed. A fan is used to suck air to the outdoors without the use of a plastic membrane. This is less effective than submembrane suction.
ACTIVE CRAWLSPACE VENTILATION
UNCOMMON MODERATELY EFFECTIVE
This simply involves a fan used at the vent(s) in the crawlspace to remove radon gas. This system is not as effective as submembrane suction or crawlspace depressurization. Active crawlspace ventilation is an uncommon radon mitigation technique, but easy and cheap to add if your crawlspace already has vents.
PASSIVE CRAWLSPACE VENTILATION
UNCOMMON LESS EFFECTIVE
This involves installing vents in the crawlspace with no fans attached. This is not a very effective system and is an uncommon technique. Many crawlspaces already have vents, so it may be an unintended way of reducing radon. Still, it’s better than nothing.
| EXTERIOR APPEARANCE
For systems with vent pipes, the vent pipe can be PVC or a downspout may be used. However, the downspout practice is controversial due to the materials and not approved in all states. Also, if you want the pipe painted or the fan to be covered with a visually appealing enclosure, it will cost you more.
| QUALITY OF BUSINESS
NRPP or NTSB-CERTIFIED BUSINESS
Make sure the radon mitigation business you’re dealing with is certified by the National Radon Proficiency Program (NRPP) or the National Radon Safety Board (NRSB). Also, in states that require it, ensure the company is a licensed radon mitigation contractor.
View a list of NRPP-certified radon mitigation professionals.
View a list of NRSB-certified radon mitigation professionals.
WARRANTY
Many radon mitigation companies offer warranties on their systems and/or fans.
MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT USED
Some companies will use lower-quality materials and fans which are prone to failure. Make sure the company you choose is transparent about the equipment they use. Companies that use higher quality materials will naturally cost more, but it may be worth it.
REVIEWS
Check the Google reviews of the business you’re using. You can usually get a good idea of the quality of business this way, even if there are few reviews.
| DO IT YOURSELF (DIY)
If you do it yourself, radon mitigation systems will cost less than half than it will cost hiring a professional to do it. However, you will be sacrificing quality and all the other things mentioned above.
| OTHER FACTORS
Most radon mitigation companies will also seal cracks and other radon entry points in your foundation. If you have a finished basement, you may choose to hire a handyman to enclose the pipe and install an access panel. Also, depending on the size of your home/crawlspace/basement, it may affect the price.
| SCHEDULE A RADON TEST
If you’re in Northern Colorado, please contact us today to schedule a radon test in your home. The easiest way is to schedule is by using our online scheduling system. Approximately 50% of homes in Colorado have elevated radon levels.
